Amponsah, William A. and Victor Ofori Boadu (2002, May). Crisis in the U.S.
Textile and Apparel Industry: Is it Caused by Trade Agreements and Asian Currency
Meltdowns? International Trade Center, Department of Agribusiness, Applied
Economics and Agriscience Education. North Carolina A&T State University:
Greensboro, NC.
Blancher, Nicholas. (2003). Exchange Rate Policy. China: Competing in the
Global Economy. Ed: Wanda Tseng and Markus Rodlauer, 215-221. International
Monetary Fund, Washington DC.
Clemson Apparel Research Lab website. [Online], Available: www.car.clemson.edu.
Cornelius, Peter K. (2003). The Global Competitiveness Report 2002-2003.
World Economic Forum.
Jones, Richard M. (2003). The Apparel Industry. Blackwell Science Ltd.
Krugman, Paul R. and Maurice Obstfeld (2000). International Economics, (Fifth
Edition) Addison-Wesley.
Lawson, Ann M., Bersani, Kurt S., Fahim-Nader, Mahnaz, and Guo, Jiemin. (2002,
December). Survey of Current Business. Benchmark Input-Output Accounts of
the United States, 1997.
Office of Technology Assessment, (1981, July). U.S. Industrial Competitiveness:
A Comparison of Steel, Electronics and Automobiles. U.S. Congress, Washington,
D.C.
Planting, Mark A., and Peter D. Kuhbach. (2001, December). Survey of Current
Business. Annual Input-Output Accounts of the U.S. Economy, 1998.
Scott, Bruce R. (1985). U.S. Competitiveness: Concepts, Performance and Implications.
In U.S. Competitiveness in the World Economy, ed. Bruce R. Scott and George
C. Lodge, 13-70. Harvard Business School Press, Boston.
Textile Research Institute website. [Online], Available: www.tripinceton.org.
Appendix B. BIS U.S. Textile and Apparel Survey
ASSESSMENT OF THE U.S. TEXTILE AND APPAREL INDUSTRY
SCOPE OF ASSESSMENT
The U.S. Department of Commerce, Bureau of Industry and Security (BIS), Office
of Strategic Industries and Economic Security, at the request of the U.S.
Congress, is conducting an assessment of the U.S. textile and apparel industry.
This assessment will include:
an assessment of the current health and competitiveness of the U.S. textile
and apparel industry;
an analysis of the contribution of the textile and apparel industry to
the U.S. economy;
an analysis of the contribution of the textile and apparel industry to
the U.S. armed forces;
a review of whether the United States is increasing its dependency on
foreign sources for critical textile-related materials;
potential threats to internal security from increased foreign sourcing
and dependency; and
whether the Berry Amendment and other Buy-American restrictions are being
effectively enforced by the Department of Defense.
Your timely and complete response to this survey will assist us in completing
our analysis of this important industry.
RESPONSE TO THIS SURVEY IS REQUIRED BY LAW
This report is required by law (50 U.S.C. App. Sec. 2155). Failure to report
can result in a maximum fine of $10,000 or imprisonment up to one year, or
both. Information furnished herewith is deemed confidential and will not be
published or disclosed except in accordance with Section 705 of the Defense
Production Act of 1950, as amended (50 U.S.C. App. Sec. 2155). Section 2155
et. seq. prohibits the publication or disclosure of this information unless
the Secretary of Commerce determines that its withholding is contrary to the
national defense. Consistent with Section 2155, the information submitted
will not be published or disclosed, other than in aggregate form, and such
information will be protected pursuant to the appropriate exemptions from
disclosure under the Freedom of Information Act (FOIA), should it be the subject
of a FOIA request.
Notwithstanding any other provision of law, no person is required to respond
to nor shall a person be subject to a penalty for failure to comply with a
collection of information subject to the requirements of the Paperwork Reduction
Act unless that collection of information displays a currently valid OMB Control
Number.
BURDEN ESTIMATE & REQUEST FOR COMMENT
Public reporting burden for this collection of information is estimated
to average five hours per response, including the time for reviewing instructions,
searching existing data sources, gathering and maintaining the data needed,
and completing and reviewing the collection of information. Send comments
regarding this burden estimate or any other aspect of this collection of information,
including suggestions for reducing this burden, to U.S. Department of Commerce,
BIS Reports Clearance Officer, Room 6883, Bureau of Industry and Security,
Washington, DC 20230, and to the Office of Management and Budget, Paperwork
Reduction Project (OMB Control Number 0694-0119), Washington, DC 20503.
GENERAL INSTRUCTIONS
Who Must Complete This Survey: Please complete this questionnaire if your
firm manufactures textile- and/or apparel-related products, including raw
materials, supplies inputs such as machinery, chemicals, dyes, etc. or specialized
services to textile and apparel producers, resells or distributes textile
and/or apparel-related products, or performs textile and/or apparel-related
research and development. This survey has 7 sections as follows:
Firm Identification
Workforce
Firm Operations
Market Focus
Financial Information
Competitiveness Issues
Certification
Multiple Divisions: You must complete this survey for all of your U.S.
textile- and apparel-related operations. You may combine all of the data
from individual divisions into one response, or submit separate surveys
for each division. Please indicate in question 3 the name(s) of any division(s)
you have included in your response, and/or how many surveys we should expect
to receive from your firm.
Responses by U.S. Establishment: For questions 5a, 6, 7, 9-12, and 14a,
you are asked to provide information by U.S. establishment for your firm.
The questions allow room for responses for 7 establishments. If your firm
has more than 7 establishments, please attach appropriately designated separate
continuation pages for each of the questions, providing the responses for
your other facilities.
Estimates: It is not our desire to impose any unreasonable burden on
any respondent. If information requested is not available from your records
in exactly the form indicated, furnish the most accurate estimates you are
able to provide and designate these figures as such with the letter “E”
following the estimate figure. If an item does not apply to your firm, please
designate with the letters “N/A”.
Questions related to this survey should be directed to:
Ronald J. DeMarines, Trade & Industry Analyst, (202) 482-3755, Rdemarin@bis.doc.gov
Rebecca Ross, Trade & Industry Analyst, (202) 482-8223, Rross@bis.doc.gov
or
Kristen Deschermeier, Trade & Industry Analyst, (202) 482-4959, Kdescher@bis.doc.gov
Before returning your completed survey, be sure to: 1) sign the certification
on page 26, indicating the name and phone number of a contact person in
case we have questions about your response. Make a copy of the completed
survey for your records.
Return your completed survey within 15 days of receipt to:
Mr. Brad Botwin, Division Director
BIS/SIES, Room 3876 (T)
U.S. Department of Commerce
14th Street & Constitution Avenue, NW
Washington, DC 20230
You may also fax your survey to (202) 482-5650.
DEFINITIONS
Berry Amendment (10 U.S.C. §2533a): This amendment generally
restricts the U.S. Department of Defense’s expenditure of funds for
supplies consisting in whole or in part of certain articles and items not
grown or produced in the United States or its possessions. These articles
are: Food; clothing; tents, tarpaulins, or covers; cotton and other natural
fiber products, or wool; woven silk or woven silk blends; spun silk yarn for
cartridge cloth; synthetic fabric or coated synthetic fabric; canvas products;
individual equipment manufactured from or containing any of the listed fibers,
yarns, fabrics, or materials; certain specialty metals; and hand or measuring
tools.
Buy American Act (41 U.S.C. §§10a through 10d): This act
restricts foreign access to most U.S. Government procurements by giving preference
to domestically produced or manufactured products. Procurements valued at
less than $2,500 (the micro-purchase threshold) are excluded. Also, the act
does not apply with respect to articles, materials, or supplies for use outside
the United States, or if articles, materials, or supplies of the class or
kind to be used or the articles, materials, or supplies from which they are
manufactured are not mined, produced, or manufactured, as the case may be,
in the United States in sufficient and reasonably available commercial quantities
and of a satisfactory quality.
Defense Shipments: Direct and indirect military shipments, including
domestic and international shipments for military use. These include: 1) defense
related end-use items identified by purchase orders bearing a DO or DX rating
and/or a contract number from the Department of Defense, the Nuclear Regulatory
Commission, Central Intelligence Agency, Federal Aviation Administration,
National Security Agency, or the National Aeronautics and Space Administration;
2) the orders of your customers which you can identify as producing products
for defense purposes; and 3) devices tested and certified to military specifications.
Development: The design, development, simulation, or experimental
testing of a prototype to validate technological feasibility and to reduce
technological risk.
Establishment: A facility in which textile- or apparel-related products
are produced, or where research and development takes place. Includes auxiliary
facilities operated in conjunction with (whether or not physically separated
from) such facilities.
Firm: An individual proprietorship, partnership, corporation (including
any subsidiary corporation in which more than 50 percent of the outstanding
voting stock is owned), cooperative, joint venture, consortium, association,
business trust, trustees in bankruptcy, or receivers under decree of any court
owning or controlling one or more establishments, as defined above.
Products: The output from manufacturing and production activities
or associated with the concurrent development and maturation of the product
design.
Production Workers – Includes all workers engaged in such occupations
as fabricating, assembling, product development, processing, storage, receiving,
warehousing, maintenance, packing, handling, shipping, trucking, janitorial,
repair, and record keeping (clerical) related to production. Also includes
working supervisors and group leaders who may be in charge of a group of employees,
but whose supervisory functions are only incidental to their regular work.
Research: Includes activities carried on by persons trained, either
formally or by experience, in developing textile- and apparel-related products
including related engineering and software development.
Shipments: Textile- and apparel-related products shipped by your
firm during the reporting period. Such shipments should include inter-plant
transfers, but should exclude shipments of products produced by other manufacturers
for resale under your brand name. Do not adjust for returned shipments.
Textile and Apparel Industry: Comprises companies that transform
a basic fiber (natural or synthetic) into a product, such as yarn or fabric,
that can be further processed or manufactured into woven, knitted, bonded,
felted, needle-punched, lace, and crocheted goods for commercial or industrial
use, as well as companies involved in two distinct manufacturing processes:
(1) cut and sew (i.e., purchasing fabric and cutting and sewing to make a
garment), and (2) the manufacture of garments in establishments that first
knit fabric and then cut and sew fabric into a garment.
Trade Adjustment Assistance (TAA) Program: A federal program established
under the Trade Act of 1974, as amended. The TAA Program provides aid to workers
who lose their jobs or whose hours of work and wages are reduced as a result
of increased imports. Workers whose employment is adversely affected by increased
imports may apply for TAA. TAA offers a variety of benefits and reemployment
services to assist unemployed workers prepare for and obtain suitable employment.
Workers may be eligible for training, job search and relocation allowances,
income support and other reemployment services.
United States: The fifty States, the District of Columbia, Puerto
Rico, and all territories, dependencies, and possessions of the United States
including foreign trade zones.
PART I – FIRM IDENTIFICATION
TYPE OF TEXTILE & APPAREL ACTIVITIES: Please
indicate with a checkmark all of your firm’s textile- and apparel-related
activities (more than one may apply).
My firm manufactures textile and/or apparel items
My firm manufactures product(s) for the textile and apparel industry
My firm provides specialized services for the textile and apparel industry
My firm distributes product(s) for the textile and apparel industry
My firm resells products for the textile and apparel industry
My firm conducts research and development for the textile and apparel
industry
Other (specify):
My firm ___________________________________________ for the textile and
apparel industry
If your firm’s activities do not fall into any of the textile- and
apparel-related categories above, your firm may be exempt from completing
this survey. Please call one of the contacts listed on page ii to verify
your status. Then:
Briefly explain the products and/or services provided by your firm.
Street Address_________________________________________
City, State, Zip Code____________________________________
OWNERSHIP – If your organization is wholly or partially owned
by another entity, indicate the name and address of parent entity, the extent
of ownership, and the year acquired.
MULTIPLE DIVISIONS – You must complete this survey for all of
your U.S. textile and apparel divisions. If your firm consists of only one
division, please go to question 5a.
If your firm consists of more than one division, you may submit separate
surveys for each division or combine all of the data from individual divisions
into one response. One or more of your divisions also may have received
a survey form. Please ensure that you do not duplicate data if you submit
more than one survey.
Specify how many surveys we will receive from your entire firm: _____
If you are submitting only one survey, please identify the domestic divisions
(aside from that listed in question 1) that are included in your response.
Name of Division
City, State
U.S. ESTABLISHMENT LOCATIONS – Please list your firm’s
(or division’s) U.S. establishment(s) currently in operation
that manufacture textile- and apparel-related goods or provide services
to the industry. Indicate which division (from question 4), if applicable,
that these establishments fall under. Please list only your firm’s
U.S. establishments.
If your firm has more than seven U.S. establishments, please continue
your response to this question on a separate piece of paper.
U.S. Establishment
Division (if applicable)
City
County
State
A
B
C
D
E
F
G
FOREIGN ESTABLISHMENT LOCATIONS – Please list your firm’s
(or division’s) foreign establishment(s) including foreign joint
venture(s) establishment(s) currently in operation that manufacture
textile- and apparel-related goods or provide services or inputs to
the industry. Indicate which division (from question 4), if applicable,
that these establishments fall under. Please list only your firm’s
foreign establishments or your firm’s foreign joint venture(s)
establishment(s) in which your firm holds an equity position.
Foreign Establishments by Division, Country,
and Goods/Services
Division (if applicable)
Country
Textile- & Apparel-Related Goods or Services
TEXTILE AND APPAREL MANUFACTURING AND SERVICES – Please indicate
with a check mark the industry sector or sectors of the textile and apparel
industry your firm operates in or services provided by placing a check next
to each applicable North American Industry Classification System (NAICS)
code. In the second column, indicate which of your U.S. establishment(s)
A through G (as provided in question 5a) are involved in the sector(s).
In the fifth column, please indicate whether your output is used for defense
or non-defense end uses, or select “unknown” if
applicable. The table continues onto the next page.
ESTAB.(s) A-G
NAICS CODE
DESCRIPTION
CIRCLE APPLICABLE END USES
Fiber, Yarn, & Thread Mills
313111
Yarn Spinning Mills
Def. Non-Def. Unknown
313112
Yarn Texturing, Throwing & Twisting Mills
Def. Non-Def. Unknown
313113
Thread Mills
Def. Non-Def. Unknown
Broadwoven Fabric Mills
313210
Broadwoven Fabric Mills
Def. Non-Def. Unknown
Narrow Fabric Mills & Schiffli Machine Embroidery
313221
Narrow Fabric Mills
Def. Non-Def. Unknown
313222
Schiffli Machine Embroidery
Def. Non-Def. Unknown
Nonwoven Fabric Mills
313230
Nonwoven Fabric Mills
Def. Non-Def. Unknown
Knit Fabric Mills
313241
Weft Knit Fabric Mills
Def. Non-Def. Unknown
313249
Other Knit Fabric & Lace Mills
Def. Non-Def. Unknown
Textile & Fabric Finishing Mills
313311
Broadwoven Fabric Finishing Mills
Def. Non-Def. Unknown
313312
Textile and Fabric Finishing Mills
Def. Non-Def. Unknown
313320
Fabric Coating Mills
Def. Non-Def. Unknown
Carpet & Rug Mills
314110
Carpet & Rug Mills
Def. Non-Def. Unknown
Curtain & Linen Mills
314121
Curtain & Drapery Mills
Def. Non-Def. Unknown
314129
Other Household Textile Product Mills
Def. Non-Def. Unknown
Textile Bag & Canvas Mills
314911
Textile Bag Mills
Def. Non-Def. Unknown
314912
Canvas & Related Product Mills
Def. Non-Def. Unknown
All Other Textile Product Mills
314991
Rope, Cordage & Twine Mills
Def. Non-Def. Unknown
314992
Tire Cord & Tire Fabric Mills
Def. Non-Def. Unknown
Hosiery & Sock Mills
315111
Sheer Hosiery Mills
Def. Non-Def. Unknown
315119
Other Hosiery & Sock Mills
Def. Non-Def. Unknown
Other Apparel Knitting Mills
315191
Outerwear Knitting Mills
Def. Non-Def. Unknown
315192
Underwear & Nightwear Knitting Mills
Def. Non-Def. Unknown
Cut & Sew Apparel Contractors
315211
Men’s & Boys’ Cut & Sew Apparel Contractors
Def. Non-Def. Unknown
315212
Women’s, Girl’s, & Infants’ Cut & Sew
Apparel Contr.
Def. Non-Def. Unknown
Men’s & Boys’ Cut & Sew Apparel
Manufacturing
315221
Men’s & Boys’ Cut & Sew Underwear & Nightwear
Mfg.
Men’s & Boys’ Cut & Sew Shirt (Exc. Work Shirt)
Mfg.
Def. Non-Def. Unknown
315224
Men’s & Boys’ Cut & Sew Trouser, Slack, &
Jean Mfg.
Def. Non-Def. Unknown
312225
Men’s & Boys’ Cut & Sew Work Clothing Mfg.
Def. Non-Def. Unknown
315228
Men’s & Boys’ Cut & Sew Other Outerwear Mfg.
Def. Non-Def. Unknown
Women’s & Girls’ Cut & Sew Apparel
Manufacturing
315231
Women’s & Girls’ Cut & Sew Lingerie & Nightwear
Manufacturing
Def. Non-Def. Unknown
315232
Women’s & Girls’ Cut & Sew Blouse & Shirt
Mfg.
Def. Non-Def. Unknown
315233
Women’s & Girls’ Cut & Sew Dress Mfg.
Def. Non-Def. Unknown
315234
Women’s & Girls’ Cut & Sew Suit Mfg.
Def. Non-Def. Unknown
315239
Women’s & Girls’ Cut & Sew Other Outerwear
Mfg.
Def. Non-Def. Unknown
Other Cut & Sew Apparel Manufacturing
315291
Infants’ Cut & Sew Apparel Manufacturing
Def. Non-Def. Unknown
315292
Fur & Leather Apparel Manufacturing
Def. Non-Def. Unknown
315299
All Other Cut & Sew Apparel Manufacturing
Def. Non-Def. Unknown
Apparel Accessories & Other Apparel Manufacturing
315991
Hat, Cap & Millinery Manufacturing
Def. Non-Def. Unknown
315992
Glove & Mitten Manufacturing
Def. Non-Def. Unknown
315993
Men’s and Boys’ Neckwear Manufacturing
Def. Non-Def. Unknown
315999
Other Apparel Accessories & Other Apparel Mfg.
Def. Non-Def. Unknown
Leather & Hide Tanning & Finishing
316110
Leather & Hide Tanning & Finishing
Def. Non-Def. Unknown
Footwear Manufacturing
316211
Rubber & Plastics Footwear Manufacturing
Def. Non-Def. Unknown
316212
House Slipper Manufacturing
Def. Non-Def. Unknown
316213
Men’s Footwear (Except Athletic) Mfg.
Def. Non-Def. Unknown
316214
Women’s Footwear (Except Athletic) Mfg.
Def. Non-Def. Unknown
316219
Other Footwear Manufacturing
Def. Non-Def. Unknown
Resin, Synthetic Rubber Manufacturing
325221
Cellulosic Organic Fiber Manufacturing
Def. Non-Def. Unknown
325222
Non-Cellulosic Organic Fiber Manufacturing
Def. Non-Def. Unknown
All Others (Machinery, Chemicals, Dyes, etc.)
(Specify)
Def. Non-Def. Unknown
(Specify)
Def. Non-Def. Unknown
(Specify)
Def. Non-Def. Unknown
(Specify)
Def. Non-Def. Unknown
EXPANSIONS OR CONTRACTIONS – For each U.S. establishment
A through G identified in question 5a above, indicate in the table below
whether operations at that location expanded (including expanded capacity)
or contracted during 1999-2003; if so, provide the year of that change.
If there were no changes in operations at a given facility, please check
the “No Changes” column.
If your firm has more than seven U.S. establishments, please continue
your response to this question on a separate piece of paper.
Expansion or Contraction of U.S. Establishment
Operations, 1999-2003
Estab.
Expanded
1999 - 2003 (Specify year(s))
Contracted
1999 - 2003 (Specify year(s))
No Changes
A.
B.
C.
D.
E.
F.
G.
BEGAN OR CEASED OPERATIONS – If your firm began or ceased operations
at any U.S. facility during 1999-2003, provide year of the change(s). Please
include all relevant facilities, whether or not you listed them in your
response to question 5a.
Began or Ceased U.S. Establishment Operations,
1999-2003
Location (City, State)
Began Production
Ceased Production
1999 - 2003 (Specify year(s))
If you either contracted or ceased production at any U.S. establishments
between 1999 and 2003, were your laid-off workers certified as a Trade
Adjustment Assistance (TAA) or NAFTA-TAA worker group? (See definition
of the TAA Program on page iv.)
Yes
No
PART II – WORKFORCE
TEXTILE- AND APPAREL-RELATED U.S. EMPLOYMENT BY ESTABLISHMENT –
For each U.S. establishment identified in question 5a above, please indicate
the total (full- & part-time) textile- and apparel-related U.S.
employment as of December 31, for the year indicated. Also, provide the
number of production workers included in the total for each year.
(For a definition of production workers, please see page iii.) Then, in
the bottom line of the table, please give the totals for each year. If you
cannot provide employment by establishment, please provide only your firm’s
total U.S. employment for each year. Please estimate U.S. employment for
full year 2003. Note: “Workers” include contract workers not directly employed
by your firm.
If your firm has more than seven U.S. establishments, please continue
your response to this question on a separate piece of paper.
U.S. Estab.
U.S. Textile- and Apparel-Related Employment
by Establishment, Total and Production Workers, 1999-2003
Dec. 31, 1999
Dec. 31, 2000
Dec. 31, 2001
Dec. 31, 2002
Dec. 31, 2003 (est.)
Total
Prod.
Total
Prod.
Total
Prod.
Total
Prod.
Total
Prod.
A
B
C
D
E
F
G
Total
FUTURE TEXTILE- AND APPAREL-RELATED EMPLOYMENT – Does your
firm have any plans to add employees at its U.S. establishments during
the next five years?
Yes
No
If “Yes”, please indicate the estimated number of employees
to be added, the number of these positions that are production positions,
and the year(s). Explain the reason for the increase (s) in the space below
the table.
Does your firm have any plans to reduce textile- and apparel-related
employment at U.S. establishments during the next 5 years?
Yes
No
If “Yes”, please indicate the estimated number of employees
affected, the number of production workers involved, and the year(s). In
the space below the table, explain the reason for the reduction.
TEXTILE- AND APPAREL-RELATED SHIPMENTS BY U.S. ESTABLISHMENT–
For each establishment identified in question 5a above, please indicate
the total textile- and apparel-related shipments for the years indicated.
Also, indicate the percentage of each establishment’s shipments by
value that are destined for defense end uses (for definitions of shipments
and defense shipments, see page iii). Provide the total shipments for each
year in the bottom row. If you cannot provide shipments by establishment,
please provide your firm’s total shipments for each year. Please estimate
shipments for full year 2003.
If your firm has more than seven U.S. establishments, please continue
your response to this question on a separate piece of paper.
1999
2000
2001
2002
2003 (est.)
Estab.
Shipments
% Defense
Shipments
% Defense
Shipments
% Defense
Shipments
% Defense
Shipments
% Defense
A.
$
%
$
%
$
%
$
%
$
%
B.
$
%
$
%
$
%
$
%
$
%
C.
$
%
$
%
$
%
$
%
$
%
D.
$
%
$
%
$
%
$
%
$
%
E.
$
%
$
%
$
%
$
%
$
%
F.
$
%
$
%
$
%
$
%
$
%
G.
$
%
$
%
$
%
$
%
$
%
Total
$
%
$
%
$
%
$
%
$
%
SURGE CAPACITY ESTIMATES – The following question is designed
to gather information about the ability of your firm’s U.S. facilities
to meet a surge in U.S. demand for textile and apparel items created by
a national security emergency.
During 2002, did your firm supply defense-related textile and/or apparel
items?
Yes
No
If your firm did not supply defense-related textile and/or apparel items
during 2002, please go to question 14.
Use your firm’s defense-related textile and apparel shipments from
2002 as listed in question 12 as a baseline. For the purposes of this question,
please make the following assumptions:
Existing U.S. textile and apparel production facilities are to be
operated at full productive capacity;
New equipment may be purchased to replace existing machinery. Equipment
on hand at the time of the beginning of the surge may be refurbished
or otherwise brought into productive service;
Labor availability reflects normal local market conditions;
Material availability reflects normal local market conditions; and
Facilities operate at the maximum rate possible given technological
constraints.
Given the assumptions above, could your firm double its average monthly
U.S. output of defense-related textile and apparel items at its U.S. facilities
in the next 6 months?
Yes
No
Given the assumptions above, could your firm double its average monthly
U.S. output of defense-related textile and apparel items in the next
12 months?
Yes
No
If your firm could not double its U.S. textile and apparel production within
the next 12 months, how long (including the first 12 months) would
it take your firm to double its monthly average output?
______ Months
BOTTLENECKS: What difficulties would your firm experience in its
efforts to double its U.S. textile and apparel production? Check as many
as apply and add any other difficulties.
Labor Agreements
Labor Shortages
U.S.-Sourced Raw Material Shortages/Non-Availability
Foreign-Sourced Raw Material Shortages/Non-Availability
Delays in Delivery of Domestic-Sourced Raw Materials
Delays in Delivery of Foreign-Sourced Raw Materials
New Machinery Delivery Leadtimes
Plant Space/Capacity
Access to Capital
Other:______________________________________
Other:______________________________________
What actions could be taken by the U.S. Government or your firm to eliminate/mitigate
these “bottlenecks”?
EXPORT SHIPMENTS: TOTAL AND/OR BY U.S. ESTABLISHMENT –
For each U.S. establishment identified in question 5a above, please
indicate the establishment’s total export shipments for
the years indicated. Please provide your best estimate; however, if
you are not able to identify export shipments by establishment, provide
your firm’s total U.S. export shipments for each year. Please
estimate export shipments for full year 2003.
NOTE: please provide the shipment values, not the sales
values, of these exports.
If your firm has more than seven U.S. establishments, please continue
your response to this question on a separate piece of paper.
Estab.
1999
2000
2001
2002
2003 (est.)
A
$
$
$
$
$
B
$
$
$
$
$
C
$
$
$
$
$
D
$
$
$
$
$
E
$
$
$
$
$
F
$
$
$
$
$
G
$
$
$
$
$
Total
$
$
$
$
$
EXPORT DESTINATIONS – List the top 5 countries (by dollar
value of shipments) that you export to:
______________________________________
______________________________________
______________________________________
______________________________________
______________________________________
DEFENSE RELATED EXPORTS – If your firm’s export
shipments include defense-related items, what share of the “Total”
value from question 14 consists of defense-related shipments to foreign
entities?
1999
2000
2001
2002
2003 (est.)
%
%
%
%
%
FOREIGN SOURCING AND FOREIGN DEPENDENCY – For all of
your textile and apparel operations, what is (are) the most important
product(s) (including machinery, raw materials and supplies) and/or
service(s) that you procure from foreign sources? Please list the 10
most significant product(s)and/or service(s) and the country(ies) from
which your firm sources those product(s)/service(s). In the third column,
indicate if your firm is dependent on that foreign source of
supply (i.e., there is no adequate domestic source).
Foreign Product(s) or Service(s)
Country(ies)
Dependent on foreign source(s)
Comments, if any, on foreign sourcing and dependency issues:
PRODUCTION CAPACITY – Production capacity is the level
of production that your firm could reasonably have expected to attain
during 2002.
What share of your firm’s production capacity (in units) in 2002
is located in the United States?_________%
What share of your firm’s production capacity (in units) has
moved offshore since January 1, 1999? _________%
What share of your firm’s production capacity (in units) do you
expect to move offshore in the next 2 years?__________%
PART IV – MARKET FOCUS
ALTERNATIVE DEFENSE PRODUCT SOURCES – If your firm currently
supplies textile or apparel products for U.S. defense-related uses, please
answer the following question. If not, please go to question 17.
If your firm (or any of its establishments) ceased operation today, would
similar or substitute product(s) be readily available to defense-related
end-users from other U.S. suppliers? For this response, consider
that “similar product(s)” must meet the specifications of the
product(s) of the closed facility.
Yes
No
If you answered “No”, please specify any other global sources
for this product(s).
Product
Firm/
Firms
Producing Country/
Countries
Could your firm maintain its financial viability if it were to rely solely
on sales of textile- and apparel-related items to defense end users?
COMMERCIAL TEXTILE AND APPAREL MARKET – Is your firm planning
to exit the U.S. commercial textile and apparel market in the next five
years?
Yes
No
If Yes, please explain the reason(s) for your decision.
Uncertainty of demand
Decrease in commercial demand
Increased foreign competition
Defense market more profitable
Sold commercial portion of business
Merger/acquisition
Other (specify)
_______________________________________
During 1999 - 2003, did your firm exit the textile and apparel
commercial market?
Yes - In what year? ________
No
If Yes, please explain the reason(s) for your decision.
Uncertainty of demand
Decrease in commercial demand
Increased foreign competition
Defense market more profitable
Sold commercial portion of business
Merger/acquisition
Commercial product not profitable
Other (specify)
_______________________________________
ENTERING DEFENSE TEXTILE AND APPAREL MARKET – Is your firm
planning to enter the U.S. defense market for textiles and apparel
in the next five years?
EXITING DEFENSE TEXTILE AND APPAREL MARKET – Is your firm
planning to exit the U.S. defense market for textiles and apparel in
the next five years?
Yes
No
If yes, for which of the following reasons? (select all that apply)
Inconsistent procurement practices
Decrease in defense demand
Department of Defense regulations too cumbersome
Sold defense portion of business
Merger/acquisition
Commercial market more profitable
Delays in payment
Difficulty in complying with Federal Acquisition Regulations
Other (specify)
_______________________________________
During 1999 - 2003, did your firm exit the U.S. defense market for textiles
and apparel?
Yes - In what year? ________
No
If yes, for which of the following reasons? (select all that apply)
Inconsistent procurement practices
Decrease in defense demand
Department of Defense regulations too cumbersome
Sold defense portion of business
Merger/acquisition
Commercial market more profitable
Delays in payment
Difficulty in complying with Federal Acquisition Regulations
Other (specify)
_______________________________________
PART V – FINANCIAL INFORMATION
FINANCIAL DATA: ENTIRE FIRM – Please report your firm’s
financial data for the years indicated for all activities. Please
estimate for full year 2003.
1999
2000
2001
2002
2003 (est.)
Net Sales
$
$
$
$
$
Cost of Goods Sold
$
$
$
$
$
Selling, General, and Administration Expenses
$
$
$
$
$
Operating Income (line 1 minus lines (2+3)
$
$
$
$
$
FINANCIAL DATA: TEXTILE- AND APPAREL-RELATED ACTIVITIES ONLY –
Please report your firm’s financial data for the years indicated for
all textile and apparel activities. Please estimate for full year
2003.
Check this box if the financial data reported in Question 23 above represents
only textile- and apparel-related activities. If so, skip to question 25.
1999
2000
2001
2002
2003 (est.)
Net Sales
$
$
$
$
$
Cost of Goods Sold
$
$
$
$
$
Selling, General, and Administration Expenses
$
$
$
$
$
Operating Income (line 1 minus lines (2+3)
$
$
$
$
$
BALANCE SHEET INFORMATION: TEXTILE- AND APPAREL-RELATED ACTIVITIES
ONLY – Please supply the balance sheet information requested below
for 1999-2002 for your textile- and apparel-related activities only.
1999
2000
2001
2002
Current Assets
$
$
$
$
Current Liabilities
$
$
$
$
Inventories
$
$
$
$
Total Assets
$
$
$
$
Short-Term Debt
$
$
$
$
Long-Term Debt
$
$
$
$
INTEREST COVERAGE RATIO – The interest coverage ratio is:
(Earnings Before Interest and Taxes) ÷ (Interest Payments)
For 2002, what was your firm’s interest coverage ratio for textile-
and apparel-related activities only?
_____%
TEXTILE- AND APPAREL-RELATED CAPITAL EXPENDITURES – Please
report your firm’s textile- and apparel-related capital expenditures
for the years indicated. Estimate for full year 2003.
1999
2000
2001
2002
2003 (est.)
New Plant & Facilities
$
$
$
$
$
New Machinery and Equipment, Machinery
Upgrades, and Replacement Parts
$
$
$
$
$
Total Capital Expenditures
$
$
$
$
$
TEXTILE- AND APPAREL-RELATED RESEARCH AND DEVELOPMENT– Please
report your firm’s textile- and apparel-related research and
development expenditures for the years indicated. Please estimate for full
year 2003.
1999
2000
2001
2002
2003 (est.)
Research
$
$
$
$
$
Development
$
$
$
$
$
Total Research & Devel.
$
$
$
$
$
GOVERNMENT TEXTILE- AND APPAREL-RELATED RESEARCH GRANTS –
Did your firm receive government (Federal, State or Local) research grants
related to textile or apparel research and development during 1999 - 2003?
Yes
No
If “Yes”, for each award please provide the amount, the name
of the granting agency, and the purpose.
Amount
Agency
Purpose
$
$
$
COOPERATIVE TEXTILE- AND APPAREL-RELATED R&D – Has your firm
cooperated with other businesses, governments, or universities on product
development/process refinement or improvement?
Yes
No
If “Yes”, in each instance, please give the value of your investment
(in-kind or in cash) and the name of your cooperative partners, and describe
the purpose of this cooperation.
Investment Amount
Partners
Purpose
$
$
$
PART VI – COMPETITIVENESS ISSUES
BARRIERS TO COMPETITIVENESS – Please evaluate the potential
barriers listed below for their impact on your firm’s competitiveness
in the United States or foreign markets for textiles and apparel. For each
potential impediment, rank the relative level of difficulty for that barrier,
with 1 being no barrier and 5 being a high barrier.
No
Barrier
<---------->
High
Barrier
Barrier
1
2
3
4
5
Government Rules and Regulations:
Unfair U.S. laws (specify)_________________
NAFTA
Unfair Foreign laws
Foreign grants/subsidies
Minimum wage requirements
Immigration restrictions
Other labor laws
Export control regulations
Import regulations
EPA Regulation
Lack of understanding/interest from U.S. government
policymakers
Antitrust laws
Government procurement practices
Insufficient or unstable government funding for R&D
Local zoning and permitting practices
Other government-related barriers
(specify)____________________
Other Impediments:
Access to capital
Cost of capital
Access to technology
Access to information
Size of market
Unfair competition
Availability of qualified personnel
Distribution and transportation costs
Marketing costs
Liabilities concerns/insurance costs
Equipment shortages
Construction delays
Other (specify) ____________________
If you ranked any of the barriers above as “4" or “5",
please discuss the type of barrier(s) and how this/these barrier(s) impede
your firm’s competitiveness.
GOVERNMENT POLICIES AND REGULATIONS – How have U.S. Government
policies and regulations (e.g., trade, environmental, labor, etc.) required
you to adjust your firm’s business practices in a manner which has
influenced your firm’s competitiveness?
BERRY AMENDMENT RESTRICTIONS – Do you believe the Berry Amendment
restrictions are being effectively enforced by the Department of Defense?
(For a definition of the Berry Amendment, please see page iii.)
Yes
No
Not Applicable
If “No”, please provide specific examples, if possible, of inadequate
enforcement, and explain how these incidents of non-enforcement affected
your firm.
If you answered “No” to question 31, what actions, if any, have
you taken to bring the lack of adequate enforcement of the Berry Amendment
to the attention of the proper authorities?
BUY AMERICAN RESTRICTIONS – Do you believe the Buy American
restrictions are being effectively enforced by the Department of Defense?
(For a definition of the Buy American restrictions, please see page iii.)
Yes
No
Not Applicable
If “No”, provide specific examples, if possible, of inadequate
enforcement, and explain how these incidents of non-enforcement affected
your firm.
If you answered “No” to question 33, what actions, if any, have
you taken to bring the lack of adequate enforcement of the Buy American
restrictions to the attention of the proper authorities?
CHANGES IN GOVERNMENT POLICIES AND REGULATIONS – What additional
actions, policy changes, or regulatory reforms could the Federal government
implement to help your firm improve its competitiveness?
FOREIGN DIRECT INVESTMENT – How has foreign direct investment
in the United States affected your firm and the competitive environment
in the U.S. textile and apparel industry?
EFFECTS OF IMPORTS – Since January 1, 1999, has your firm
experienced any negative effects as a result of U.S. imports of textile
or apparel products?
No
Yes – My firm has experienced negative effects as follows:
Declining Return on Investment
Declining or stalled growth
Cancellation or rejection of expansion projects
Loss of Sales
Declining prices or inability to raise prices
Denial or rejection of investment proposal
Reduction in the size of capital investment
Reduced spending on R&D
Layoffs
Rejection of bank loans
Lowering of credit rating
Problems related to the issue of stocks or bonds
Other (specify):_________________________________________
Other (specify):_________________________________________
IMPACT OF WORLD TRADE ORGANIZATION QUOTA ELIMINATION -- How will
the planned elimination of textile and apparel quotas in 2005 affect your
firm’s business and business plans?
FOREIGN COMPETITORS – If your firm now faces competition
in the United States from imports, please list below the source countries
for these imports. Please rank these countries in the order of competitiveness
faced by your firm, with “1" representing the most significant
source of foreign competition.
Rank
Country
Rank
Country
1st
6th
2nd
7th
3rd
8th
4th
9th
5th
10th
Please list the countries you expect to be your firm’s greatest
source of import competition in 2006. Rank these countries in the order
of expected competitiveness faced by your firm, with “1"
representing the most significant source of foreign competition.
Rank
Country
1st
2nd
3rd
4th
5th
DOMESTIC TEXTILE AND APPAREL COMPETITORS – For each of your
textile- and apparel-related products, please list your top 5 U.S. competitors
and their U.S. headquarter location. If your firm has more than one U.S.
competitor for a given product, indicate the rank for each competitor by
the relevant product.
Rank
U.S. Competitor
City, State
Product(s)
COMPETITIVE POSITION – Please circle the number that best
represents your competitiveness relative to your domestic competitors
over the next five years. Base your rating on a scale of 1 to 5, with 1
being less competitive and 5 being highly competitive.
Less Competitive
Highly Competitive
1
2
3
4
5
Please circle the number that best represents your competitiveness relative
to your foreign competitors over the next five years. Base your rating
on a scale of 1 to 5, with 1 being less competitive and 5 being highly competitive.
Less Competitive
Highly Competitive
1
2
3
4
5
COMPETITIVE ACTIONS – What specific actions did your firm
take to improve its competitiveness during 1999-2003? Please choose
from the list below, adding other actions if necessary. Discuss these actions
more fully in the space below the check boxes.
Application of electronic data interchange (e-commerce)
Modular, cellular or team production systems
Quality management systems
Automation
Other (specify): ________________________________
Other (specify): ________________________________
COMPETITIVE ACTIONS – What specific actions does your firm
plan to take to improve its competitiveness during 2004 and beyond?
Please choose from the list below, adding other actions if necessary. Discuss
these actions more fully in the space below the check boxes.
Application of electronic data interchange (e-commerce)
Modular, cellular or team production systems
Quality management systems
Automation
Other (specify): ________________________________
Other (specify): ________________________________
COMPETITIVE ADVANTAGES FROM U.S. PRODUCTION – Does your firm
derive any competitive advantages from U.S. production because of:
Yes
No
Rapid replenishment of retail orders
Yes
No
“Just-in-time” supply to industrial customers
Yes
No
Customer preference for U.S. country of origin
Yes
No
Complexity of product
Yes
No
Other (specify)____________________________
Yes
No
Other (specify)____________________________
COMPETITIVE STRATEGY – Which of the following best describe
the competitive strategy for your textile- and apparel-related activities?
Select as many as apply.
Lowest Price
Best Product/Service
Niche/Specialty
All of the above
Other (specify) ___________________________
CUSTOMER CONCENTRATION – For 2002, how many customers
each accounted for more than 10 percent of your sales? _____ customers
Do you expect this customer concentration to increase or decrease
in 2003?
Increase
Decrease
Do you expect this customer concentration to increase or decrease
after 2003?
Increase
Decrease
SALES CHANNELS/DISTRIBUTORS CONCENTRATION – For 2002,
how many of your distributors each accounted for more than 10 percent
of your sales? _____ distributors
Do you expect this distributor concentration to increase or decrease
in 2003?
Increase
Decrease
Do you expect this distributor concentration to increase or decrease
after 2003?
Increase
Decrease
PART VII – CERTIFICATION
The undersigned certifies that the information herein supplied in response
to this questionnaire is complete and correct to the best of his/her knowledge.
It is a criminal offense to willfully make a false statement or representation
to any department or agency of the United States Government as to any matter
within its jurisdiction (18 U.S.C. §1001 (2000)).
_____________________________________________________
Firm Name
_____________________________________________________
Authorizing Official - Print Name
_____________________________________
Title
_______________________
Phone Number
_____________________________________
Signature
_______________________
Date
_____________________________________________________
Point of Contact - Print Name
_____________________________________
Title
_______________________
Phone Number
_____________________________________
Email
_______________________
Fax Number
Final Report:
If you would like a copy of the final textile and apparel industry assessment,
please check the box:
Comments (optional): In the space below, provide any additional
comments or any other information you wish to include regarding your textile
or apparel operations or other related issues that impact your firm. In addition,
what industry needs and concerns did this survey fail to address?
OFFICE OF STRATEGIC INDUSTRIES AND ECONOMIC SECURITY
STRATEGIC ANALYSIS DIVISION
PUBLICATIONS LIST
The U.S. Department of Commerce’s Strategic Analysis Division is the
focal point within the Department for conducting assessments of defense-related
industries and technologies. The studies are based on detailed industry-specific
surveys used to collect information from U.S. companies and are conducted
on behalf of the U.S. Congress, the military services, industry associations,
and other interested parties. The assessments are completed with the assistance
of industry experts, both from the private sector and other government agencies.
Italics indicate forthcoming studies
PUBLICATION TITLE
U.S. Textile and Apparel Industries: An Industrial Base Assessment
– Fall 2003
8th and 9th Offsets in Defense Trade - Conducted under §309
of the Defense Production Act of 1950 – Fall 2003
National Security Assessment of the U.S. Shipbuilders’ Supplier
Base – Fall 2003
National Security Assessment of the Munitions Power Sources Industry
– Fall 2003
National Security Assessment of the Air Delivery (Parachute) Industry
– Fall 2003
Economic Impact Assessment of the Army Theater Support Vessel Procurement
– Fall 2003
Critical Technology Assessment of Biotechnology in U.S. Industry
– Fall 2003
Industry Attitudes on Collaborating with DOD in R&D –
Air Force – September 2003
7th Offsets in Defense Trade - Conducted under §309 of the Defense
Production Act of 1950- July 2003
Technology Assessment: U.S. Assistive Technology Industry – February
2003
6th Offsets in Defense Trade - Conducted under §309 of the Defense
Production Act of 1950- February 2003
The Effect of Imports of Iron Ore and Semi-Finished Steel on the National
Security – October 2001
National Security Assessment of the U.S. High-Performance Explosives &
Components Sector –June 2001
National Security Assessment of the U.S. Shipbuilding and Repair Industry-
May 2001
Statistical Handbook of the Ball and Roller Bearing Industry (Update)
- June 2001
5th Offsets in Defense Trade - Conducted under §309 of the Defense
Production Act of 1950-May 2001
National Security Assessment of the Cartridge and Propellant Actuated
Device Industry: Update - Dec. 2000
The Effect on the National Security of Imports of Crude Oil and Refined
Petroleum Products-November 1999
4th Offsets in Defense Trade - Conducted under §309 of the Defense
Production Act of 1950-Oct. 1999
Critical Technology Assessment: Optoelectronics - October 1998
3rd Offsets in Defense Trade - Conducted under §309 of the Defense
Production Act of 1950 - August 1998
National Security Assessment of the Emergency Aircraft Ejection Seat Sector
- November 1997
2nd Offsets in Defense Trade - Conducted under §309 of the Defense
Production Act of 1950 – Aug.1997
Critical Technology Assessment of the U.S. Semiconductor Materials Industry
- April 1997
1st Offsets in Defense Trade - Conducted under §309 of the Defense
Production Act of 1950 - May 1996
National Security Assessment of the Cartridge and Propellant Actuated
Device Industry - October 1995
The Effect of Imports of Crude Oil and Petroleum Products on the National
Security - December 1994
Critical Technology Assessment of U.S. Artificial Intelligence - August
1994
Critical Technology Assessment of U.S. Superconductivity - April 1994
Critical Technology Assessment of U.S. Optoelectronics - February 1994
Critical Technology Assessment of U.S. Advanced Ceramics - December 1993
Critical Technology Assessment of U.S. Advanced Composites - December
1993
The Effect of Imports of Ceramic Semiconductor Packages on the National
Security - August 1993
National Security Assessment of the U.S. Beryllium Industry - July 1993
National Security Assessment of the Antifriction Bearings Industry - February
1993
National Security Assessment of the U.S. Forging Industry - December 1992
The Effect of Imports of Gears and Gearing Products on the National Security
- July 1992
Natl. Sec. Assessment of the Dom. and For. Subcontractor Base~3 US Navy
Systems - March 1992
Natl. Security Assessment of the U.S. Semiconductor Wafer Processing Equipment
Industry - April 1991
National Security Assessment of the U.S. Robotics Industry - March 1991
National Security Assessment of the U.S. Gear Industry - January 1991
The Effect of Imports of Uranium on the National Security - September
1989
The Effect of Imports of Crude Oil and Refined Petroleum Product on the
National Security – Jan. 1989
The Effect of Imports of Plastic Injection Molding Machines on the National
Security - January 1989
The Effect of Imports of Anti-Friction Bearings on the National Security
- July 1988
Investment Castings: A National Security Assessment - December 1987
Joint Logistics Commanders/DOC Precision Optics Study - June 1987
An Economic Assessment of the U.S. Industrial Fastener Industry - March
1987
Joint Logistics Commanders/DOC Bearing Study - June 1986
